It's not so easy to install a kitchen sink without destroying your countertop, but a DIYer with average skills can complete the replacement in about four hours.

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Photo: JProvey

Another installation consideration in a kitchen sink is the type of mounting holes for fixtures. Most kitchen sinks come with four holes for mounting faucets, sprayers, and soap dispensers.
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So many elements in kitchen design have remained common over the decades. Cabinets still have raised panels. Countertops are still made of plastic laminate. And tile is still a preferred surface for backsplashes and floors. But an ugly steel band running around an almond- or avocado-color sink? That says ’80s faster than big hair.

Unfortunately, it’s not so easy to replace an old sink (and its supporting hudee ring) without destroying your countertop, but a do-it-yourselfer with average skills can complete the replacement in about four hours. As with any plumbing job, begin early in the day, so if something does go wrong, you may still be able to finish by dinnertime!

1. Buy a sink that will fit the existing opening. (You can buy a sink that’s slightly bigger than the opening, but it may be difficult to enlarge the hole.) Buy the rest of the supplies you’ll need and get everything ready to go. If you’re replacing a cast-iron sink, be sure to have some extra muscle on hand to help manage the weight.

Photo: JProvey

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2. Clear out the sink cabinet and crawl in there with a flashlight. Locate the clips that secure the sink and its rim to the countertop. Remove them and disconnect the supply and drain plumbing.

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3. With your helper holding the sink from above, push up on the old sink from underneath. You may have to run a putty knife around the perimeter to loosen the old caulk seal. With the old sink removed, test-fit the new one.

Photo: JProvey

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4. Prepare the new sink by installing the faucet according to the manufacturer’s directions. Two common sink installation mistakes are, one, forgetting to clean the new sink thoroughly before installing and, two, forgetting to install the new faucet before installing the new sink. Factory-fresh stainless steel sinks smell awful, so it’s best to scrub them down outdoors. And it’s a lot easier to install the faucet before you install the sink, for at this stage, the mounting nuts are more accessible. While you’re at it, install all accessories too, including sprayer and detergent dispenser mounts.

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5. When installing the faucet and sprayer bases, apply a ribbon of plumber’s putty first.

Photo: JProvey

6. Apply caulk under the sink rim and seat it in the opening. Fl studio trap beat project download.

Photo: JProvey

7. Install the drain and tail pipe, seating it in caulk or using the supplied gasket—whichever method is recommended by the manufacturer.

Photo: JProvey

8. Install the new clips, then reconnect the supply lines and drain pipes. If using flexible supply hoses (recommended), don’t reuse the old ones. The rubber gasket that seals the connection may have hardened over the years and may not seat properly to the new faucet’s tailpieces.

9. Finally, turn on the water and run it for several minutes. Check for leaks at all connections, especially at the tubing, around the drain, and around the trap.

Money-saving tip: Buy a sink and faucet combo. You’ll save at least $100 if you can find a pairing you like.

Related:
How To: Unclog a Sink Drain
A Glassy-Smooth Enamel Finish for Old Kitchen Cabinets
Backsplash Idea: Faux Stone Refinishing

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Kitchen Sink Prices

Both prominent and widely used, kitchen sinks must bridge the gap between style and function. But with so many sinks and options available, finding the perfect sink and faucet setup for your kitchen can be overwhelming. This buying guide from Cost Owl aims to simplify the kitchen sink selection process by breaking down the most important considerations, including pricing.

Kitchen Sink Options

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Use the following factors as a starting point for your new kitchen sink setup:

Sink Material

Stainless steel is a very popular choice for kitchen sinks due to its durability, easy upkeep, and reasonable price tag. 18 gauge or thicker (the lower the gauge, the thicker the steel) is recommended for a sink that wears better and is quieter (insulation can be added to reduce the drumming of running water). A brushed satin finish will hide water marks and scratches, while a mirror finish is harder to keep clean.
Enameled steel or cast iron sinks have a surface layer of enameled porcelain that is glossy, durable, and available in many colors. The surface can chip, however, if struck hard enough. Well insulated, cast iron is quiet and retains heat, making it good for dish-washing. Iron is heavier than steel, however, and requires a sufficiently sturdy countertop. Steel is a bit more affordable but doesn't perform as well.
Solid surface sinks are nonporous and sold in a huge range of colors. Marks can be removed with light buffing, as the color is consistent throughout the material. Solid surface sinks can be fully integrated with a solid surface countertop for a seamless, sanitary kitchen surface.
Engineered stone sinks, also known as composite sinks, contain real stone fragments mixed with acrylic binders for added strength and stain resistance. Hard as well as heat and scratch resistant, these sinks are similar to solid surface but more closely resemble stone. Composite granite, quartz, and soapstone are popular.
Acrylic sinks made from plastic and fiberglass are scratch and stain resistant, easy to maintain, and affordable.
Vitreous china and fireclay sinks are both made from molded clay, but fireclay is thicker and baked at a higher temperature, resulting in a denser, more durable surface. Both materials are highly stain and scratch resistant, but fireclay is less likely to chip. Because it's more mass produced, vitreous china is cheaper than fireclay.